Family Ties – Exclusive interview with Leonardo Ferragamo

Florence on a sunny morning. It’s a busy Monday, but for our photoshoot Leonardo Ferragamo has climbed all the way up to the rooftop of the Palazzo Spini Feroni, which has served as the company headquarters since 1938. The chairman of the legendary brand that is known for artisanal excellence in exceptional footwear, ready-to-wear fashions, handbags, accessories and fragrances is himself the best ambassador to his family company. Elegantly dressed in a blazer and tie, he joins us just a few minutes later for the interview. By the way: The distinctive Gancini that has become the logo – a stylized horseshoe inspired by an ancient door ornament at the brand’s Florentine headquarters – represents like no other symbol the core values of the brand: tradition, quality and innovation. For nearly a hundred years, ever since its founding in 1927 by the charismatic shoe designer Salvatore Ferragamo, the luxury brand has been equally famous for its tightknit family, which still holds control of one of the last remaining family-run companies with a deep connection to Italian tradition and craftsmanship.

A family legacy with responsibility

GG: Mr. Ferragamo, you and your siblings have quite remarkably managed to preserve the values your parents instilled in you. When your father passed away you were only seven years old – what are your strongest memories of him?
Leonardo Ferragamo: Let me put it this way – my siblings and I feel incredibly privileged to have had two extraordinary parents. My father passed away in 1960 at the age of 62, and my mother, only 38 at the time, was left to raise a large family and continue the business. She saw it as her mission to pass on the incredible story she had lived with my father. Through her, we grew up surrounded by his legacy. These stories, the spirit of his ventures, and his example became a constant presence in our lives. They instilled in us a deep desire to honor both of our parents’ dreams and preserve what they had built. That ambition has guided us throughout our lives. All six of us, at different times, entered the business with a shared purpose – to contribute, evolve, and achieve success for the brand, both individually and as a team.

The importance of craftsmanship

Ferragamo is known for celebrating craftsmanship and the artisans who bring your products to life. Were you exposed to this world already as a child?
Absolutely. Craftsmanship is deeply ingrained in my upbringing. I remember playing with leather swatches when I was just two years old while my father worked on shoes at home. When I started elementary school – my only school year while he was still alive – my reward for good grades was to visit the factory and spend time with the cobblers, learning the basics of shoemaking. As a teenager, I spent summers in the factory with my younger brother Massimo. I was about 14 when I made my first pair of shoes for my mother – though she never wore them! (laughs) But they didn’t look too bad to me. My first real job in the company was also on the shoemaking side, working directly with the craftsmen. I’ve always loved that hands-on connection with our artisans.

Florence is considered the heart of Italian craftsmanship. How has that changed over time? Do you find it a challenge to preserve this legacy today?
My father chose Florence after achieving success in Hollywood. At 29, he decided to leave America behind and return to Italy in pursuit of quality. He chose Florence because of its deep-rooted traditions and culture – and he was right. Florence has long been, and still is, the capital of craftsmanship in Tuscany, especially in leather. But real craftsmanship isn’t just about working with your hands – it’s a state of mind. It’s the imagination, the passion and the care you put into creating something. And that mentality is still very much alive here. Processes have evolved, of course, but the essence of craftsmanship – this centuries-old spirit of excellence and partnership – remains.

It seems to me that this mindset represents the essence of your company.
Yes, absolutely. And we feel a responsibility to pass these values on to the next generation of workers, whether they are employed in the factories or designing products. In our factory, the average age is just over 30. Yet we still have people in their 50s and 60s mentoring the younger generation. It’s inspiring to see the passion and pride returning to hands-on work, work that involves the heart, mind and body.

So you’re seeing a comeback in the value that is put on craftsmanship?
I sincerely hope so. There’s a renewed sensitivity and desire among young people to learn and create with their hands.

Balancing tradition and innovation

Is everything Ferragamo still produced in Italy?
Yes, one hundred percent – with just a few rare exceptions.

How many people work in your factories, and are these factories all based in Tuscany?
We have a network of suppliers across Tuscany and other regions of Italy. Internally, we have about 50 people focusing on prototyping and product development. The rest of the production is handled by our trusted external partners.

Most luxury brands today are part of large conglomerates like for example LVMH or Kering. Ferragamo continues to remain family-owned and independent. How difficult is this in today’s market?
Remaining independent certainly presents challenges. We don’t have the same scale or negotiating power as the big groups, but we see this as a strength. It forces us to be more creative, more agile and unconventional. There are still some wonderful independent brands that are family owned – like Chanel, Hermes, Zegna, Moncler or Cucinelli, for example. And like them, we take pride in staying true to who we are. That independence also fosters a deep sense of pride among our team. It’s a real source of energy.

Your family seems uniquely united, which is rare in a multi-generational business. How have you managed that?
Unity is powerful. We were taught that it must be earned – even at the cost of personal sacrifice. And we embraced that. My mother was the driving force behind this mindset, but each of us supported it. Whenever one of us faced challenges, the others came together to help. This value has stayed strong in our generation, and now with the third generation entering the business, we hope to maintain and nurture that spirit. It’s not easy, but it’s essential.

Are the next-generation Ferragamos being prepared for specific roles from an early age?
There’s no strict plan, but currently, six members of the third generation are active in various roles across the group. Inside Ferragamo, Cesare James, the son of my brother Ferruccio, and Angelica, the daughter of my sister Fulvia, work with me. Diego, the son of my sister Fiamma, is involved in the holding company. Manuele, the son of Fulvia, is working in the real estate and hospitality devision while my son Riccardo oversees central Europe. Our challenge now is to cultivate the same bond among them that my siblings and I shared. That unity will determine the future leadership – whether in fashion, hospitality or other ventures of our group.

You made a bold move recently by appointing the then only 27-year-old designer Maximilian Davis to lead creative direction. How was that move received?
We had a creative void and were searching for someone who could both understand our heritage and bring in fresh ideas. We looked at more than 60 candidates. Yes, Maximilian was only 27 when he joined our company, but he stood out for many reasons: his natural elegance, his deep respect for our history, his sensitivity to the brand’s identity and of course his creativity. He’s also a wonderful person – open, collaborative and humble. That was essential. A young designer must be willing to grow with a team, and he was. His work has been central to rejuvenating the brand.

In addition to making changes in creative design you also decided to adjust the logo – why did you take that step?
We debated it for years. Ultimately, we realized that the original “Salvatore Ferragamo” signature wasn’t working well in digital or store formats. Interestingly, when we looked into our archives, we found that my father often used just his surname. The new logo is actually inspired by an original one he designed in the 1930s with Lucio Venna. We wanted the new logo to feel modern but at the same time to remain authentic. We even revisited our iconic brand color red – the new shade is based on the red that was used in the shoes he made for Marilyn Monroe in the 1950s.

It sounds like this evolution was almost a personal mission for you ...
Definitely. I was one of the strongest advocates for it. I believed that the time had come for change – not a revolution, but a thoughtful evolution. It was a long-term decision, and we knew it would take time. But it’s already reshaping the company and energizing the next generation.

And it motivated the younger members of the Ferragamo family?
Absolutely. They saw this as a bold, exciting step forward.

Which are Ferragamo’s most important markets today?
Our vision has always been global. We entered China early, ahead of many other companies. Europe is more important than ever – especially Germany, which has responded enthusiastically to our new direction. South America is following what we’re doing with great interest. Asia is perhaps our biggest challenge today, and China is currently going through a slow period. But in general, we want to bring this unique blend of heritage, innovation and Italian elegance to the world.

Do you have any iconic bestsellers?
Yes, we have a few Ferragamo Forever pieces – timeless items like the Top Handle bag or the Vara shoe with its gold plate. We’re also seeing exciting momentum around new designs, like the Hug bag, which is quickly becoming iconic.

Luxury that lasts

How do you personally define luxury?
I would rather explain what luxury is not. It’s not about ostentation or excess. It’s not about showing off. Luxury is what remains – it’s enduring. For me, it’s about feeling good in what you wear, being comfortable in your surroundings and sharing meaningful experiences with the people you love. It’s about inner fulfilment, not external validation.

Has your appreciation for luxury deepened as a result of your upbringing?
Without a doubt. Growing up, I understood how much love and effort goes into each item. That awareness has shaped my values ever since.

And finally, what does family mean to you?
Above all, love. It shows itself in so many ways – raising children, staying close, supporting one another and sharing experiences. Keeping each family member in your heart at all times and being present for every moment that matters. That’s what I try to do with my children and grandchildren. I may not always succeed, but I try.