Dolce far niente – a visit to the Adler Spa Resort Sicilia

Arrive and breathe a sigh of relief

On the drive to the resort in Siculiana from Palermo airport, a trip of less than two hours, I already start to feel the world opening up around me – as if the landscape itself were creating space to breathe. Beyond the azure sea, its swells breaking gently against the golden sand, a second sea of undulating emerald hills extends toward the horizon: olive and lemon groves, orange and almond trees stretching as far as the eye can see. When we arrive at our destination, I immediately take note of the large garden outside the entrance. Before heading inside for dinner, which is served in the resort’s panoramic restaurant, I enjoy the final rays of the sun from my terrace before it sinks into the sea like a red ball of fire.

A garden full of treasures

Fish and seafood are on the menu today. Each delicacy on our plate was freshly caught only this morning. Here, farm-to-table is not merely a promise but a lived reality. The kitchen follows the rhythms of nature and serves only seasonal, regional and all-natural fare. The red shrimp from Mazara del Vallo are my personal favorite. With their fine, nutty aroma and buttery texture they virtually melt on my tongue.

I open the curtains the next morning and see the first guests, dressed in robes and slippers, walk along the stone paths that cross the grass between the pools and the sauna. The sound of birdsong wafts through my open terrace door accompanied by the scent of rosemary and orange blossoms. During breakfast – think pistachio croissants, fresh fruit and energizing juices – my gaze is drawn out to the garden, which is home to thousands of different botanical species. I’m staying at one of six Italian resorts belonging to the Adler Group, which is owned by the Sanoner family. This resort is the most recent opening. It’s also the only Adler resort by the sea, where it holds pride of place on the edge of the Torre Salsa nature reserve, one of the island’s most intact stretches of coastline in southwest Sicily. The five-star property set amid extensive grounds offers guests tranquility and privacy and exudes a certain lightness. Despite having over 90 suites, it is surprisingly quiet and uncrowded. The timeless cedar and glass architecture, with its greenery-topped roof, merges seamlessly with the landscape. In fact, you only realize how large the resort is when you enter the rooms.

In the heart of old Sicily

I join an excursion to the Valley of the Temples in Agrigento. It’s one of Sicily’s most exciting archeological sites and on UNESCO’s world heritage list. Soon after we set off, a herd of sheep wanders into the road, blocking our way. Rising imposingly into the sky amid olive trees, agave and cacti, the Doric temples bear witness to Greek civilization in Sicily. In the adjacent Kolymbethra Garden I enjoy a picnic beneath ancient orange, lemon, almond and mulberry trees. The oldest orange tree here is an impressive 350 years old and still bears juicy, unsprayed fruit – a living testament to the natural equilibrium of the region. Back at the resort, I end the evening with a swim in the heated outdoor pool. When the moon rises, its light casts a silvery sheen on the water and I’m filled with a quiet sense of a new beginning.

Experience it with all your senses

The following day, Antonino Dinolfo, an environmental educator, and Dr. Letterio Taormina, a specialist in Chinese medicine, lead a tour through the garden and the surrounding parkland. Ever since the resort opened in 2022, the gardeners have been growing roughly 60 percent of the fruits and ­vegetables right here. The rest is ­seasonally sourced from organic farms in the region.

I discover a number of medicinal plants on my walk: samphire (asparagus of the sea), borage and wild fennel. I taste peeled thistle, chew on a refreshing stalk of sorrel and spread aloe vera gel on my arms. Guests are permitted to harvest herbs using panaru – traditional handwoven willow baskets. Connecting with the earth in such a direct way makes me feel grounded.

Our path leads through a pine grove and down to the water’s edge, where only 300 meters from the resort, a pristine sandy beach awaits. Eight kilometers of coastline stretch from Monte Stella all the way to Capo Bianco. I return to the resort by golf cart just in time for lunch, which is served in the Osteria with its impressive view of shimmering green interacting with the blues of sea and sky.

A farewell full of light-heartedness

I spend the afternoon regenerating body and soul. During my sound bath, the deep tones of the gong merge with the distant sounds of the sea. After 45 minutes, feeling light and renewed, I watch the sunset while floating in the Thalasso pool, just as a member of the hotel staff suggested. The warm sea water has an overall clarifying effect. After a short stint in the steam sauna and a massage with organic citrus oil, I enter a blissful state of relaxation.

On the return trip to Palermo, I take in my surroundings one last time, etching them into my memory. Back in Hamburg, in cool northern Germany, I peel the orange that I picked in the Kolymbethra Garden. Its aroma transports me straight to Sicily – to that paradise of light, open space and blooming citrus trees.