Poetic, Effortless and Carefree

When you were growing up, you thought traditional jewelry was too formal, too rigid. Today, your brand is quite the opposite of that. How did your personal style evolve?

My great-grandfather founded the family gold jewelry business in Florence in 1885. I think tradition is very important, but as a young girl, I was frustrated by the strict rules that applied to fine jewelry, like having to wear certain things at certain times. What I craved was a playful element. I ultimately founded Carolina Bucci to show that fine jewelry could be fun and laid-back, while remaining true to its heritage. The family workshop in Florence still exists and employs real jewelers, but the way they work is more relaxed, more contemporary.

Many people regard fine jewelry as something to be kept safe in a box. Was it difficult for you to challenge this view?

My biggest critic was my father. When I wanted to alter a piece of jewelry, he made me sketch exactly what I had in mind and then showed me what worked and what didn’t. That was the best training I could possibly have had. From an early age, my father taught me to fight for what I wanted and work out whether it was feasible or not. It was this approach that led to the Lucky Bracelets – gold chains interwoven with silk threads. The bracelets don’t have a clasp; you’re meant to tie them and make a wish at the same time. Each color and charm has a different meaning, such as love, happiness or good health. When I launched what I called my “emotional jewelry” there was a bit of pushback, but I ­persevered. Today, twenty years ­later, that bracelet collection is more popular than ever.

How do you turn a creative idea into something that can actually be made?

I’ve learned a lot over the years, but my approach is always the same. I start with an idea and an image in my head, then I work backwards to see if what I envisage is possible to make. Very often, the tools that are needed don’t exist, so we have to make them. For our woven pieces, for instance, we took old wooden Renaissance looms and modernized them to accommodate gold threads and gold chains. Every collection is a learning process that pushes the boundaries of the craft. I don’t want to create things simply for the sake of creating, but in order to learn and evolve. Sometimes, this means making things a little bit more difficult for ourselves. 

What inspired the Forte Beads, a collection that is known for its playful, individual style?

My first collection, the Lucky Bracelets, was inspired by the friendship bracelets I made as a young girl at the beach in Forte dei Marmi every summer. Years later, my own children continued the family tradition. I have two boys, and when they were younger, I would always take along containers filled with colorful plastic beads. I wore the bracelets they made along with my real jewelry, and in 2018, came up with the idea for the Forte Beads: the same easygoing look, the same happy feeling, the same summertime memories – except made of real, precious materials.

Many of your collections invite the wearer to take part in the creative process by altering or personalizing their pieces. Is this an important aspect of your work? 

Absolutely. Every collection I design is inspired by my life or a moment in my life – almost like photographs in an album. When I look at my designs, I know exactly what inspired them: a trip that I took, the birth of one of my sons or when I turned 40. What I love best is when a client falls in love with one of my pieces, for whatever reason, and the piece then takes on a new story that is meaningful to them. For me, the definition of true luxury is when something is perfect for you, but not for everyone else. That’s why personalizing a piece is so important. My jewelry reflects parts of my life, but I make it so it can begin a new journey with its wearer and create new traditions.

You have stores in Florence, London and Montecito, California. Is there a particular concept behind these three locations?

I have a personal and emotional connection to each one of my stores. We opened the first one in London, the city I’ve lived in since 2004 and where I raised my children. Florence is my original home, the place my family lives and where you could say the brand was born. It took us a long time to find the right place for our artisanal workshops, but they’re in front of the Ponte Vecchio, right at the center of the city. Montecito was our most recent opening. It’s very different, somewhat otherworldly, beautiful, elegant and well curated. At the same time, it has that typical, easygoing California charm: quality oriented but laid-back. Each store is a little different and reflects its ­location, but all three exude the unmistakable Carolina Bucci vibe.

Each one of your designs has its own personal signature and is absolutely unique. If you had to choose one, which piece would you say you are most fond of?

In reality, every new collection tends to become my new favorite, although I always go back to the classics. They all serve a purpose and all represent something dear to me. If I really had to choose though, it would be my Family necklace. The small, individually crafted charms represent my children, my husband, our dog and even our fish. When I wear it, I have my whole family – my biggest inspiration – with me at all times. This makes it both meaningful and special.