Discover the district of San Zeno with Engel & Völkers

The characteristic district of San Zeno is situated in an enviable geographic position, as it borders the historic centre and the ring roads that allow for quick access. The main squares are Piazza Corrubbio and Piazza San Zeno. The former is the setting for convivial activities such as restaurants, bars, pizzerias, small shops and pastry shops, while the latter houses the famous Basilica of San Zeno. This is a district “where nothing is missing”: schools, pharmacies, restaurants, bars, newsagents, supermarkets, a beautiful park where one can walk and play sports, hotels, wellness centres and shops of all kinds. For the inhabitants of San Zeno it is like living in a small town within Verona itself, they feel so good there that they would never leave it!

The Basilica of San Zeno

It was erected in the 9th century on the remains of a pre-existing monastery, whose origins date back to the 4th century. It is a magnificent example of Veronese Romanesque architecture. Originally, the interior walls were to have been covered with frescoes, only portions of which remain today. Particularly noteworthy are the famous St Zeno altarpiece by the Mantuan painter Andrea Mantegna, a Renaissance work that attracts art lovers from all over the world, and the 13th century statue of St Zeno laughing, which is original for the attitude with which the subject is represented. Also famous are the bell tower and the decorations on the façade and portal: the bronze panels, the bas-reliefs, the large rose window called the “Wheel of Fortune“.

Who was San Zeno

He was the eighth bishop of Verona, who lived in the 4th century AD. Little is known about him, and moreover his life is shrouded in legend. Apparently, he was originally from Mauretania, which is why he is called the "Moorish Bishop". He led an austere life, feeding on the fish he caught in the Adige River, so much so that he was considered the protector of freshwater fishermen. He devoted himself rigorously to his studies and wrote about a hundred sermons, which have come down to us. It is said that he performed many miracles, such as curing the possessed daughter of a magistrate, and above all the cult spread when, through his intercession, a flood of the river stopped at the gates of the cathedral, allowing the population gathered inside to be saved. San Zeno's feast day is 12 April, but is celebrated on 21 May, the day on which his remains were brought to what is now the Basilica of San Zeno Maggiore. He is the patron saint of Verona and and is celebrated throughout the city.

Different types of buildings alternate in the district. We find restored historical buildings that retain flavourful characteristics such as internal courtyards and decorated façades, but also more modern apartment blocks housing several households. In the areas of Piazza San Zeno and Piazza Corrubbio, the buildings are low, colourful and characteristic. There is no shortage of villas, often in Art Nouveau style, surrounded by private gardens that provide privacy and tranquillity, or important palaces such as those on the Regaste, which overlook the river with a splendid view of Castelvecchio. In recent years, several structures have been converted to bed and breakfast or tourist accommodation, charming corners where one can spend a few nights during a stay in Verona.

The markets of San Zeno

Every first Sunday of the month (except August), the district hosts Verona Antiquaria, a market that brings exhibitors from all over northern Italy to the city. The stalls are located in Piazza San Zeno, Piazza Corrubbio, Piazza Pozza, Via San Procolo, Via Lenotti and Via Porta San Zeno. Visitors will find here art and antiques, furniture, knick-knacks, carpets, modern objects and clothes, vintage and collectables. Thematic side events and shows are also organised on market days.

The Carnival and the Papà del Gnoco

The origins of the Verona Carnival are steeped in mystery. The tradition narrates that, due to the devastating flooding of the Adige River and the incursions of the Landsknechts, the city suffered a terrible famine. The starving people rose up in San Zeno, storming the bakeries and seizing bread and grain. The general uprising was averted thanks to the intervention of some citizens who, at their own expense, decided to feed the poorest inhabitants of the district. Among these was apparently also the doctor Tomaso Da Vico, referred to as the „instructor and restorer“ of the „Bacchanal of the Dumpling“, who is said to have left as an indication after his death the obligation to distribute food and groceries annually to the population of the San Zeno district. Today, Carnival is an occasion to dress up and party, to watch the beautiful parade of floats, which generally takes place in February, and to eat the typical dish – gnocchi al pomodoro (gnocchi with tomato sauce) –, which gave its name to the typical mask, the 'Papà del Gnoco'.

Sitography and images

All links were consulted on 18/5/2022