Labors of Love – The NENI restaurants owned by the Molcho family

The NENI restaurants: From passion to family project

Whose idea was the name NENI? 
Ilan: It was mom's idea to use the first letters of our names, her children's names: Nuriel, Elior, Nadiv and Ilan.Haya: I wanted something that represented us. My husband  Samy supported me right away. NENI was a personal gesture that became a brand.

When did your project develop into a family business?  
Haya: It all began with a small party service that we operated out of our kitchen in Vienna. I cooked, the children helped, and before we knew it, the catering orders starting coming in. When the first NENI restaurant opened at the Naschmarkt fruit and vegetable market – my sons were in their twenties – we knew this was no longer just a project, but about family, something we were passionate about, the route we wanted to take together.

Did you ever doubt the wisdom of working alongside family members?  
Elior: Of course there was friction – that's perfectly normal. We all knew that if we were open and honest with each other, the trust we built would make us stronger as a family. 
Nuriel: It was a learning process. But that's exactly what helped us stick together.

A family with all-round talent

How did you decide who would do what? 
Nuriel: We didn't plan it like that – each of us just did what we were best at. I took over the marketing early on, Ilan focused on strategy and expanding the business and Elior took on the creative part since he's good at design. Mom is the soul of the kitchen.
Haya: I was able to let go – but I never stopped cooking.

In which areas did you have to acquire proficiency first? 
Ilan: In running a business – you don't learn how to do that at school. There was a lot we only learned by doing: how to manage employees, how to expand internationally, how to build up the brand.
Nuriel: Emotional management within the family was perhaps the hardest thing. Being professional at work and affectionate to each other in private – that's a daily balancing act.

Are there boundaries between family time and work time?
Haya: No! (laughs) Everything mixes together for us— and that's a good thing.
Nuriel: We often sit at the table, talk about the new menu, then move on to personal topics — that's NENI: inseparably private and professional.

An internationally successful restaurant concept

You now have 13 NENI restaurants in 7 countries, 650 employees and total annual sales of more than €47 million. How do you impart a family vibe while at the same time growing on an international scale?
Ilan: We invest in culture, not just  structure. We give our full, personal attention to every new location that we open. And we convey something of our soul – through the food, through story telling, through interior design.

How did NENI become a brand?
Nuriel: Through authenticity. We never pretended—we live what we do. And people sense that.

What dish best reflects your family as an entity
Haya: Sabich (a kind of Israeli stuffed sandwich, editor's note). It's chaotic, colorful and full of aromas – like us.

Ms. Molcho, on your travels around the world with your husband, Samy, the famous mime, you were exposed to many different kinds of food. What impressions have stayed with you to this day?
Haya: Diversity, creative courage, openness. We were introduced to many cultures, all of which live on in our dishes.

Which particular smells and tastes remind you of home?
Elior: Grilled eggplant.
Ilan: Tahini and creamy hummus, of course.
Haya: For me it's the scent of freshly baked challah (a traditional Jewish bread, editor's note).

The secret recipe for conviviality and passing the torch to the next generation

Is the principal of sharing for you the key  to true conviviality?
Haya: Yes. Food is there to be shared, it's the start to every real connection.

Do you have family rituals?
Haya: The Sabath – candles, bread, family. Nuriel: And eating the midday meal together as often as possible.

What is the best thing about working with your own family?
Nuriel: Trust.
Elior: Closeness.
Ilan: Unconditional support.
Haya: And growing together.

If your story were a recipe, what ingredients would it contain?
Ilan: Curiosity.
Elior: Passion.
Nuriel: Courage.
Haya: Love. And a pinch of balagan (Hebrew word meaning “charming chaos,” editor's note).

What does the next generation at NENI look like —are there any ideas about handing over the reins
Nuriel: The next generation is watching us closely—who knows which of them will take over one day. Haya: We're keeping everything open, but we're passing on our knowledge.

Will NENI remain a family business?
Ilan: Yes. But we are open to external support if it suits us. The soul of the business will always be the family.